The Magnificent Mawddach

The Mawddach estuary is to me one of the most strikingly beautiful places in Wales. Stood out on the spit of land that protrudes from Fairbourne on the southern edge, on a clear day you get magnificent views up stream towards Dolgellau, framed by the engineering marvel of Barmouth Bridge (or Barmouth Viaduct to use its official title). On one side, you are overlooked by the summit of Cadair Idris and on the other side is the seaside town of Barmouth. Turn on your heels and you are met by the blue expanse of Cardigan Bay.

On other days, you can barely see the viaduct for the rain and you can struggle to remain upright with the strength of the wind!

 

The Mawddach estuary has been a favourite place since childhood, with the sandy beaches and the miniature railway on the Fairbourne side, with a small ferry ride across to Barmouth for an ice cream.

 

I’ve seen the estuary in all weathers. After graduating from university and being encouraged to find employment, I spent the summer on the seasonal staff driving on the Fairbourne Railway. It remains the only place where I have needed full waterproofs, overcoat and leggings to drive a steam loco! My favourite was the turn where you got your lunch break at the Point, on one occasion, whilst eating my sandwiches, I witnessed an RAF Hercules swing round from the south, drop so low over the river that I lost sight of it behind the viaduct until it gained height above the viaduct and flew low over our heads and out to see.

 

On our recent holiday, we once again spent time around the Mawddach Estuary. There is a good walk (two and a half miles, mostly flat) from Loop Halt on the Fairbourne Railway across to Morfa Mawddach station, then on to Barmouth via the viaduct. After an ice cream in Barmouth, we caught the ferry and the train back to Fairbourne.

Cregennan Lakes are 800ft above the Mawddach on the northern slope of Cadair Idris from which you get commanding views over the estuary.

Sitting at work writing this a week after returning home, I can still hear the shrill call of the many oystercatchers we saw wheeling about as we walked across the viaduct heading for our ice cream. Take me back!